The nice thing about
this park is that you are going to see wildlife. We had undertaken a
bit of a mad cross Eastern Province dash to get to the gate on time,
having left Blue Hill at 11.30. We zoomed past spectacular scenery
demanding landscape photos, which we had to ignore with our eyes on
the dashboard clock. Thanks to the new tyres on the Jimney, we made
it to Cradock (the nearest town to MZNP) just after five, and to the
gate by five thirty. No problem! The campsite is 12 km from the gate,
and we had to be at reception at 6, No Problem! Except from the
moment we drove into the park wildlife was just throwing itself into
our path.
There were literally
traffic jams of Red Hartebeest, Springbok and Black Wildebeest. If if
the Cape Mountain Zebra is endangered, it definitely isn't in this 28
thousand hectare protected area, as they lined the roads to greet our
arrival, like striped cheerleaders at fan parade.
And then – to top it
all, a Black Rhino had emerged from impenetrable Acacia thicket to
check out what all the commotion was about. Black Rhino are one of
those species that, like leopard, are often on a park's species list,
but that you learn to not to expect to actually see. Given that
hundreds are being killed every year for their medicinally useless
horns, a sighting of this huge, awesome animal is a privilege. We
would later learn why these are still alive – its thanks to a very
dedicated team of rhino protectors – but the details of their
activities are of course not public information.
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Black Rhino |
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Black Wildebeest |
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Red Hartebeest |
Somehow we made it to
reception on time, avoiding the euphemistic 'extra charge' for
arrivals after 6. We were a bit surprised at how full the campsite
was, but again, as if the word was out there were very special guests
arriving, and the best campsite had not been taken – on the far
side, away from everone – the best place when having to deal with a
loud toddler. The next day nearly all the other campers left – we
weren't sure if that because of Elena, or because
it was Sunday and most were heading back home after the weekend.
Having spent the day in
the car the previous day, Anja and I decided to stretch our legs
along the 2.5km Black Eagle hike that is located within the fenced
off camp area. The night had been surprisingly cold, and it was nice
to get out and enjoy some late summer sun. The dassies (rock hyrax)
were thinking the same thing. While there was no sign of Black Eagle,
Anja got the prize for best spot of the day with an African Goshawk
swooping off with a dove.
For our afternoon drive
we took in the scenic Kranskop loop – partly also be cause we
needed a relaxing hour drive during which Elena could take her
afternoon nap. Views of the Camdeboo mountains from here are
breath-taking. By the time Elena was awake we were onto the bustling
plains of the Rooiplaat loop, which is like a buck supermarket, each
species wondering around to pick out its favourite brand of grass.
We were also excited by our first (of 11) Black-backed Jackal
sighting.
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A disagreement of Blesbok |
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Black Wildebeest on the run |
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Springbok |
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Plain's Game |
|
Young Mountain Zebra |
|
Kudu |
After tucking Elena in
for the night, I went for a stroll to find the campsite's genet.
Every South African National Park campsite must have one.
For our second full day
we braved the Sonnenrust 4x4 loop, and were yet again rewarded with
great plain's game, including Gemsbok and Eland. While Cheetah had
been spotted on the Link road the previous day, we weren't so lucky.
Instead, we decided to
chill out at the unused Picnic Spots. These are lovely, and both have
swimming facilities. The first one also has a resident troop of
cheeky Vervet Monkeys.
All in all, three
nights was probably just right for a stay at Mountain Zebra National
Park. Camping facilities were good, birdlife was great, and another
day may have been fun to explore the other 4x4 trails, but we had our
next park to get to. Below a small selection of some of the sightings.
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Ground Squirrel |
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Gemsbok |
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Black-backed Jackal (number 7) |
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Both Burchell's Zebra (with the light brown intermediate stripes) and Mountain Zebra are found in the park |
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Mountain Zebra |
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White-browed Sparrow-weaver |
Wow what a wonderful adventure
ReplyDeleteDid you ever get your star chart? The sky must have been spectacular out there.
We did indeed thank you! The skies are fantastic - next to no light pollution! Nights are a bit cold for sitting out too long though :)
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