From George to Port
Elizabeth, from dusty Karoo to stormy coast, lies a diverse mix of
landscapes containing a wealth of flora and birdlife, much neglected
by the avitourist industry. This later fact makes birding peaceful
and affordable. Around 300 species can be seen within a short period
of time, many of which will be Cape, Karoo or Southern African
endemics. The area is easily accessible from George or Port
Elizabeth, and offers one of the most productive birding experiences
anywhere in South Africa. In addition, wildlife and scenery are first
class and a reason to do the trip all by itself. This route can be
undertaken with a sedan vehicle. A 4x4 would open up the possibility
of going through Baviaanskloof Nature Reserve, but this is a route
description that literally takes one 'around' the Baviaanskloof NR.
May: suggested
destinations as a circular route from George (or Port Elizabeth).
A
– George, B – Montagu Pass, C – Blue Hill Escape, D –
Steytlerville, E – Addo, F – Nature’s Valley
George.
Depending on flight arrival time visit the Garden Route Botanical
Gardens for Black and rare Baillon's Crakes, Purple Swamphen and
‘garden birds’, including African Paradise Flycatcher, Cape
Weaver, Olive Thrush and Cape Robin Chat. African Cuckoo Hawk has
also been spotted here on rare occasions.
If
you have more time, head west past MosselBay to the Voelvlei
floodpan. Little Stint, Ruff, Black-winged Stilt and White-faced Duck
are common, but even a Hudsonian Godwit has graced this large wetland
although other waders are more common.
Witfontein
Forest Reserve is about 2 km outside George on the start of the
Montagu Pass. Walk east along the main forest trail for about 2 km to
the indigenous forest stands. The focal species are forest
specialists: Grey Cuckoo-shrike, Knysna and Olive Woodpecker, Yellow
Woodland-Warbler, Knysna Warbler, Starred Robin, Knysna Turaco,
Narina Trogon, Rameron Pigeon, Forest Buzzard and Forest Canary. I’d
recommended 2 to 3 hours at almost anytime of the day since forest
birds are active for longer.
Spend
an hour or so driving up the Montagu Pass. The lower section of the
road follows more indigenous forest along the Keur River. Olive-bush
Shrike, Dusky Flycatcher, Cape Batis, Black Saw-wing Swallow and Swee
Waxbill are all possibilities. Further up the pass one gets into
Fynbos. Lesser and Greater Double-collared, Malachite,
Orange-breasted and Amethyst Sunbirds are all probable. There is a
chance for Cape Sugarbird. Jackal Buzzard is also likely towards the
top of the pass, and in fact almost anywhere along the route. The
road is narrow with few passing and overtaking places, to take care
up this section.
Once
one reaches the N9 between George and Uniondale one is into mixed
agricultural land with several dams. The road is wide enough to pull
over easily to set up a scope to scan for waders, including
Greenshank, Common Sandpiper, 3-banded Plover, Black-winged Stilt,
Avocet, South African Shelduck, Cape Shoveller and the more common
waterfowl – Yellow-billed
Duck and Egyptian Goose. Black-shouldered Kite, Rock Kestrels and
Steppe Buzzards are frequent along the powerlines. Less frequently
seen are Black Harrier hovering over the short scrub further east
towards De Vlugt. Blue Cranes and White Storks occasionally prowl the
fields. Summer migrants include Yellow-billed Kites with the chance
for Black Kite, African Stonechat, Steppe Buzzard and various
Swallows – Barn, White-throated, Greater Striped, and Black
Sawwing.
Giant,
Brown-hooded and Pied Kingfisher lurk along open, overgrown rivers
and dams respectively. Helmeted Guineafowl are also plentiful in the
fields around towns.
Passing
the Uniondale heights one enters a type of Fynbos called
Renosterveld, which grades into succulent Karoo further north. This
is Korhaan and Bustard territory, but these can be hard to pick out
among the grey Renosterbos, while Karoo Scrub-Robin is common. 15 km
out of town, take the southern most of the access routes to
Baviaanskloof (labelled Hartbeesrivier). From here it is a 30km drive
to Blue Hill Escape. Denham's, Ludwig's and Kori Bustards, as well as
Black Korhaan and large flocks of Blue Crane are all found here.
Rarely, Spoonbill and Black Stork are seen around the dams en-route.
Pale-chanting Goshawks and the occasional Jackal Buzzard,
Black-chested Snake Eagle or Lesser Kestrel keep watch from the
telephone lines along the road. Pied Starlings, Speckled Pigeon are
common, but care needs to be taken to tell between the various Canary
species that occur – Yellow, Brimstone, Streaky-headed, Cape and
Black-headed.
At
Blue Hill, a wonder along the short Baboon trail may reveal
Red-necked Spurfowl, Grey-winged and Cape Francolin, Long-billed
Crombec, Bar-throated Apalis, Bokmakierie, Karoo Prinia and Cape
Bulbul. All fynbos specials can be seen along the 7 km Sugarbird
Valley hike. Cape Rockjumper, Orange-breasted Sunbird, Cape
Sugarbird, Protea Seedeater, Cape Siskin, Victorin's Warbler, Ground
Woodpecker, Cape Grassbird, Cape Rock-thrush and Cape Bunting. A
lucky stumble could flush a Hottentot Buttonquail, but more likely a
Common Quail. There are good chances for Booted Eagle, Verreaux's
Eagle and Jackal Buzzard. Martial Eagle and Fish Eagle have on rare
occasion been seen moving through the area. The late night listener
may be lucky enough to hear Cape Eagle Owl beyond the Reed Frogs and
Fiery-necked Nightjars.
From
Blue Hill a worthy day drive follows the Vaalwater road to Nuwekloof
Pass, which offers amazing cliff scenery, another chance for Bustards
and Korhaans, but also Red-chested Sparrowhawk. On the road between
Nuwekloof and Willowmore one dips into Karoo birds including Karoo,
Red-capped, Long-billed, Large-billed and Cape Clapper Larks,
Lark-like Bunting, Cinnamon-breasted Bunting, Golden-breasted Buntin
and Cape Bunting as well as Chestnut-vented and Layard’s
Titbabblers, all three Mousebirds, Karoo Chat, Namaqua and
Rufous-eared Warbler.
The
long and dusty R329 through Steytlerville hides Kori Bustard and a
sparse population of Secretary Birds. Grey-backed Sparrowlarks
sometimes wonder this far south, as do Sentinel Rock Thrush. Towards
Addo Elephant National Park (306km, 4 hour drive from Blue Hill) one
has to pass through the orchards around Kirkwood where Spotted Eagle
Owl hide among the Hadedas in the large exotic trees.
Spectacled and Dark-backed Weavers will be a new ones for the list
along with Cape, Southern Masked Weaver and Red Bishops. The Spekboom
habitats integrate into woodland thickets preferred by Black-headed
Oriole and White-browed Scrub-Robin.
From
Addo the coastal route once again offers the chance to explore the
forests of the Tsitsikamma. Natures Valley is the perfect place to
spend some time looking for Knysna Turaco, Black Cuckoo, Grey
Cuckoo-shrike, Chorister Robin-chat, Dark-backed Weaver and the
beautiful Narina Trogon. If a walk along the estuary does not reveal
Roseate, Swift, Sandwich, Common and Damara Terns, then a pelagic
trip out of Plettenberg Bay or Knysna should.
Of
the Wilderness Lakes, Rondevlei may well be one’s best bet for reed
and lake specialities, such as Little Rush-Warbler or African
Marsh-Harrier. There are several walks in the area along beaches and
into forests, as well as around the estuary. The birdlist for Ebb and
Flow campsite (managed by SANParks) is impressive, and warrants a few
days here alone. And that more or less rounds off the trip, with
George just a few kilometres up the road.
